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Volume 2
A kayaking and recreation guide for the North and Central B.C. coast
I pulled my kayak out of the water at port hardy, british columbia
on September 2, 2005, 92 days after I first launched. I had paddled
3,404 kilometres (2,115 miles)—or more than 6 times the distance
between Port Hardy and Alaska. I had explored B.C.’s most secluded
inlets and ventured out to some of the most remote archipelagos.
During the trip I encountered 9-m (30-foot) swell, a bear standing on
my kayak, a sleeping humpback whale and scenery too beautiful to
describe. I was rained on for 13 days straight, blown down channels
despite my best efforts to go in the other direction and went days, occasionally
weeks, without seeing another soul. I travelled into areas
where kayaks rarely go and discovered, for possibly the first time in
my life, what it is like to be a pioneer.
Despite our shrinking planet, so much of the B.C. coast remains
remote and unexplored.
I had several goals when I set out to write this book. First I wanted
to provide an overview of the north and central B.C. coast through
photographs, maps and descriptions—a shopping list, if you like, of
possible destinations that others might one day like to explore.
A second goal was to demystify some aspects of the coast,
particularly the idea that the Inside Passage is a difficult, distant
and exclusive place to journey. I also wanted to raise the profile of
the Outside Passage, about which very little has been written.
A third goal was to compile a list of camping opportunities
along the coast. A reasonable network of campsites should exist by
now; sadly it was still lacking when I ventured out in late spring of
2005. This information is critical for kayakers. Never did I encounter
a group without at some point huddling down over a chart and
sharing what little we knew about camping locations. I hope this
book will take away some of the anxiety of where to set up camp
while travelling the coast. - John Kimantas
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A few samples:
The Wild Coast 2 continues the standard of the first volume with easy-to-read and informative maps. In all you'll find over 50detailed maps of the north and central B.C. coast showing camping locations, launch sites and other points of interest designed for kayakers and other coastal explorers.
It's also about photography. Wild Coast 2 has over 100 stunning colour photos of every region of BC's north and central coast, including the Outside Passage even the most remote and inaccessible shorelines. It is a veritable menu of the outstanding sites to see, such as this image of kayaking Fisher Channel towards Bella Bella..
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And lastly, why this book exists...
Here is an excerpt from the introduction:
By John Kimantas
The b.c. coast is a place shrouded in mystery, often seen as stormy,
remote and inaccessible—beautiful but too perilous to explore. There
are stories of fabled white bears, of yachtsmen who sailed into magically
untouched coves surrounded by mile-high mountains, of places
where waterfalls cascade in numbers too numerous to count and
salmon run so thick grizzlies can scoop them out while standing on
the shore.
We had to take their word for these stories, of course. Many
of these places were truly a mystery. Major portions of the coast
weren’t charted until 1991. Small pockets remain uncharted today.
Occasionally a hardy soul would paddle the coast and return
with epic tales of braving the elements by canoe or kayak—struggling
against nature and eventually conquering the Inside Passage.
We revelled in these stories about the wealth of nature along the
coast and the difficulties entailed in reaching it.
While this pioneering spirit is still very much alive, the coast is
undergoing a transformation. The doors are finally opening.
Perhaps more than anything else, B.C. Ferries has opened
up the coast with its Inside Passage and Discovery Coast
Passage routes, which provide vehicle, foot and even kayak access
to remote communities such as Bella Bella, Klemtu and Ocean
Falls. Through a wet-launch service, paddlers can now explore
many points in between.
Resorts have popped up. Those like Hakai, Shearwater and Koeye
River cater to wilderness lovers in areas otherwise the realm of
fishing lodges only.
Old communities like Namu and Ocean Falls are returning to
life. The First Nations communities of Klemtu, Hartley Bay and
Metlakatla are embracing their past and diversifying their economy
with travel and tourism packages, from kayak trips to cultural heritage
tours. Water taxis provide access to areas once difficult to reach,
and the growth in popularity of kayaking allows the exploration of
areas considered too hazardous to navigate by deep-keeled boats.
Despite the opportunities, tourism in B.C.’s north and central
coast is still in its infancy. Infrastructure consists of a few docks,
fuelling stations and stores selling basic provisions—fewer services
than the days when coal-powered steamships ran the coast. There
are few coastal towns on the outer reaches, just Bella Bella, Klemtu,
Hartley Bay and Lax Kw’alaams. The major communities of Prince
Rupert, Kitimat and Bella Coola provide the only road access.
In other words, wilderness is still the backdrop for almost the
entire B.C. coast.
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